Camper van water system: setup and tips
A good water system makes the difference between camping and comfortable living in your camper van. Whether you want a simple setup with a jerry can or a full plumbing system with hot water — in this guide we cover all the options.
Plan your water system
Components of a water system
A complete water system in a camper van consists of:
Fresh water tank: 40-120 liters, depending on your space and travel pattern. Material: polyethylene (PE) or stainless steel.
Water pump: provides pressure to the system. Two types: submersible pumps (cheap, simple) and pressure pumps (constant pressure, more comfortable).
Pipes: 10-12 mm diameter, suitable for drinking water (John Guest or similar). Never use garden hose!
Boiler (optional): for hot water. 5-10 liters is sufficient. Heating via diesel, gas or 230V.
Faucet: special camper faucets are lighter and have lower flow rates than household faucets.
Waste water tank: catches used water. Should be at least as large as your fresh water tank.
How much water do you need?
Water consumption depends heavily on your lifestyle:
Minimal (conservative use):
• Dishes: 3-5 liters/day
• Hand washing: 1-2 liters/day
• Drinking/cooking: 2-3 liters/day
• Total: ~8-10 liters/day per person
Comfortable use:
• Including short showers: 15-20 liters/day per person
• With regular showers: 25-30 liters/day per person
An 80-liter tank is enough for two people with conservative use for 4-5 days. With comfortable use, this is 2-3 days.
Tip: install a tank level gauge so you always know how much water you have left.
Installation: step by step
The order of installation:
1. Determine the position of tank, pump, boiler and faucet. Consider weight distribution (tank as low and central as possible).
2. Mount the fresh water tank with sturdy brackets. The tank must withstand driving on rough roads.
3. Install the water pump. For a pressure pump: mount between tank and pipes. For a submersible pump: it goes inside the tank.
4. Run the pipes. Use drinking water hose and avoid kinks. Use push-fit connectors for easy maintenance.
5. Mount the faucet and optional boiler.
6. Run the drain to the grey water tank. Use a minimum slope of 1-2% for natural drainage.
7. Test the system for leaks before you start cladding!
Winterizing and maintenance
Water and frost don't mix. Take these measures:
Winterizing:
• Drain all tanks and pipes completely
• Blow out pipes with compressed air
• Leave faucets open so residual water can evaporate
• Optionally use food-safe antifreeze
Annual maintenance:
• Flush the system with clean water at the start of the season
• Clean the fresh water tank with a water purification agent
• Check pipes and fittings for wear
• Replace the water filter (if you have one)
Drinking water quality:
• Always use a water filter when filling
• Replace water every 2-3 days if not using it
• Never leave the system standing for months with water in it
Water is the heaviest thing you carry
A litre of water weighs a kilo. That sounds obvious, but in a camper conversion it is the figure most people underestimate.
A full 100 litre fresh water tank is 100 kg. Add an 80 litre grey water tank and you are driving around with nearly 180 kg of water. That is more than two passengers, and it is immediately the largest variable item in your entire weight calculation: full this morning, empty tonight, and your axle load distribution shifting continuously in between.
That is why placement matters so much. Put the tank as low as possible and as close to the axle as you can, and preferably not right at the back. A full tank far behind the rear axle acts as a lever that lightens the front axle, precisely the axle that steers and brakes.
A practical trade-off: a smaller tank you refill more often saves weight and space permanently. Topping up twice a week at a campsite or filling station is rarely a problem in western Europe, and 60 litres instead of 100 saves 40 kg you would otherwise carry all year.
In the payload checker, always enter your tank as full rather than empty. You want to know whether you stay within the limits in the heaviest state, not the lightest.
Keeping fresh, grey and black water apart
There are three kinds of water in a camper and each asks for something different.
Fresh water is your drinking water. This system has to stay clean, so use only hose and tanks approved for drinking water. Garden hose taints the taste and is not intended for consumption.
Grey water is used water from the sink and shower. It contains soap and food residue and starts to smell quickly if it stands. Empty it regularly at a proper disposal point and flush the tank through now and then. Soap residue and grease together form a film that is hard to remove later.
Black water is toilet waste. That belongs in a separate system: a cassette toilet or a separating toilet. Never mix it with your grey water tank.
The grey water tank does not need to be larger than your fresh water tank, but it should be roughly the same size. Everything that goes in comes back out again, minus what you drink and what evaporates while cooking.
What goes wrong in practice
A few things go wrong often enough to be worth knowing in advance.
The pump that keeps cycling. A pressure pump switches on pressure. If there is air in the system or a fitting leaks somewhere, pressure keeps dropping and the pump kicks in every few seconds. That is not only irritating but also costs power and wears the pump. An accumulator tank damps this.
Pipework you can no longer reach. Never panel over anything before you have pressure-tested the whole system and left it standing overnight. A fitting dripping behind a screwed-down panel is a demolition job.
The drain that does not drain. Gravity needs help. Without a fall of a few percent, water sits in the hose and starts to smell. Lay the waste pipe with a consistent fall and avoid sagging loops where water collects.
Freezing. Water expands as it freezes and pulls fittings apart or splits a tank. If you leave the van outside in winter, the system has to be genuinely empty, not mostly empty.
A tank that shifts. A full 100 litre tank breaking loose in an emergency stop is a 100 kg projectile. Strap it down in a way that can take that, not with a couple of tie-downs.
Plan your water system
Use our tools to calculate the space needed for your water tank and other components.
Frequently asked questions
- How big should the water tank in my camper van be?
- This depends on your usage and travel pattern. For conservative use, plan 8-10 liters per person per day. A 60-80 liter tank is enough for two people for 3-5 days. If you shower often, choose 100-120 liters.
- What water pump do I need?
- A pressure pump (e.g. Shurflo, Fiamma) is most comfortable. It provides constant water pressure, similar to home. A submersible pump is cheaper and simpler but provides less comfort.
- How do I keep the water in my camper van clean?
- Use a water filter when filling, replace water regularly and clean the system at the start of each season. Use drinking water safe hoses and avoid standing water for more than a few days.
- How much does my water system weigh?
- Reckon on a kilo per litre. A full 100 litre fresh water tank is therefore 100 kg, and with a grey water tank as well you quickly reach 150 to 180 kg of water. That is the largest variable item in your weight calculation. Always enter the full situation in the payload checker, because that is where you have to stay within the limits.
- Where is the best place for the water tank?
- As low as possible and as close to the axle as you can manage, preferably not right at the back. Water is heavy and shifts your centre of gravity considerably. A full tank far behind the rear axle lightens the front axle, which is exactly the axle that steers and does most of the braking. The weight distribution tool shows what your placement does to the axle loads.
- Does my grey water tank need to be as big as the fresh water tank?
- Roughly, yes. Almost all the water you take on comes back out through the sink and shower, minus what you drink and what evaporates while cooking. If your grey tank is much smaller, you will have to empty it more often than you refill fresh water, and that is what decides in practice how long you can stay in one place.