How to calculate wire gauge for your camper van
One of the most important decisions in your camper van electrical installation is choosing the right wire gauge. Cables that are too thin lead to voltage drop, heat build-up and in the worst case fire. In this guide we explain step by step how to calculate the correct wire gauge.
Calculate it yourself
Why wire gauge matters so much
In a camper van you work with 12V (or 24V) DC power. At the same wattage, 12V draws much more current than 230V AC at home. More current means more heat generated in the cable. A cable that is too thin for the current flowing through it will get hot and can melt or cause fire.
Additionally, a cable that is too thin causes voltage drop along the way. If your fridge needs 12V but only 11V arrives due to cable losses, it won't work properly or may even shut off.
How to calculate the right wire gauge
To calculate the wire gauge you need three pieces of information:
1. The current (in Amps) — how much current does the device draw?
2. The cable length (in meters) — the one-way distance from battery to consumer (the factor 2 in the formula accounts for the return cable)
3. The maximum voltage drop (%) — how much loss is acceptable?
For 12V systems, a maximum of 3% voltage drop is generally recommended. For longer cables or sensitive equipment, 1-2% is better.
The formula: cross-section (mm²) = (2 × length × current) / (56 × allowed voltage drop in volts)
The number 56 is the conductivity of copper. For aluminum cables, use 34.
Common wiring mistakes to avoid
The most common mistake is forgetting that current has to travel both ways. A fridge 3 metres from the battery needs 6 metres of cable in total (positive + negative). Our formula already accounts for this with the factor 2, so you enter the one-way distance — but make sure you actually buy enough cable for both runs.
Another common mistake is forgetting the fuse. Every cable must be protected with a fuse that matches the maximum current rating of that cable, not the connected device.
Finally: never use household cables (Romex, NM-B) in a camper van. These are designed for 230V AC and don't have the right insulation for an environment with vibration and moisture.
Recommended wire gauges for common circuits
Here are guidelines for typical camper van circuits at 12V:
• LED lighting (1-2A): 1.5 mm² up to 3m, 2.5 mm² up to 5m
• USB chargers (2-3A): 1.5 mm² up to 2m, 2.5 mm² up to 4m
• Fridge (5-8A): 2.5 mm² up to 3m, 4 mm² up to 5m
• Water pump (5-10A): 2.5 mm² up to 2m, 4 mm² up to 4m
• Inverter 1000W (85A+): 25 mm² up to 1.5m, 35 mm² up to 2.5m
These are guidelines — always use a calculator for your specific situation.
Calculate it yourself
Use our free tools to calculate the right wire gauge and fuse for your camper van installation.
Frequently asked questions
- What wire gauge do I need for 12V in a camper van?
- This depends on the current and cable length. For light circuits (lighting, USB) 1.5-2.5 mm² is sufficient. For heavier consumers like a fridge or water pump, use 4-6 mm². For an inverter you need 25-50 mm². Always use a calculator for your specific situation.
- How much voltage drop is acceptable in a camper van?
- For most 12V circuits, a maximum of 3% is recommended (0.36V at 12V). For sensitive electronics and longer cables, 1-2% is better. For an inverter, you want as little loss as possible, ideally under 1%.
- Should I use stranded or solid wire in a camper van?
- Always use stranded (fine-strand) wire in a camper van. Solid wire can break from vibrations while driving. Look for automotive-grade wire such as FLRY or GXL that is rated for vehicle use.