Camper van electrical cheatsheet: all values at a glance
Everything you need for your camper van electrical installation in one page. Wire gauges, fuse sizes, typical power consumption, battery capacity and solar yield. Bookmark this page or print it out and hang it in your workshop.
Calculate your own values
Wire gauge: mm² to AWG and maximum current
A cable that is too thin causes heat build-up and fire hazard. Too thick wastes money and is harder to route. This table shows the maximum continuous current per cable size, so you can choose the thinnest cable that is still safe for your circuit.
| mm² | AWG | Max current | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.75 mm² | 18 AWG | 10A | LED lighting, short signal cables |
| 1.0 mm² | 17 AWG | 13A | Lighting, switches |
| 1.5 mm² | 16 AWG | 16A | Lighting circuits, USB chargers |
| 2.5 mm² | 14 AWG | 22A | Fridge, water pump, fans |
| 4.0 mm² | 12 AWG | 30A | Heater, larger consumers |
| 6.0 mm² | 10 AWG | 40A | High-power circuits |
| 10 mm² | 8 AWG | 55A | Sub-distribution, small inverter |
| 16 mm² | 6 AWG | 75A | Main battery cables, medium inverter |
| 25 mm² | 4 AWG | 100A | Inverter up to 1500W, alternator charging |
| 35 mm² | 2 AWG | 130A | Inverter up to 2000W |
| 50 mm² | 1/0 AWG | 170A | Large inverter, main battery connection |
| 70 mm² | 2/0 AWG | 215A | High-power systems |
Fuse sizes: which fuse for which circuit
The fuse protects the cable, not the device. Without the right fuse, a short circuit can overheat a cable before you notice it. Always choose based on the cable's maximum current rating and place fuses within 30 cm of the battery.
Blade fuses (ATO/ATC) — up to 30A
| Rating | Circuit |
|---|---|
| 3A | LED strip (single color) |
| 5A | Interior lighting, USB charger |
| 7.5A | Reading lights, small fan |
| 10A | Water pump, diesel heater, vent fan |
| 15A | Compressor fridge, multiple fans |
| 20A | Large fan, 12V outlet |
| 25A | Heavy consumer, sub-panel feed |
| 30A | Shore power charger |
ANL / MIDI / MEGA / Class T — 40A+
| Rating | Type | Circuit |
|---|---|---|
| 40A | ANL/MIDI | DC-DC charger, MPPT controller |
| 60A | ANL/MIDI | Sub-distribution panel feed |
| 80–100A | ANL/MIDI | Small inverter (up to 1000W) |
| 150A | ANL/MEGA | Medium inverter (1000–1500W) |
| 200A | ANL/MEGA | Large inverter (1500–2000W) |
| 250–300A | Class T | Main battery fuse, large inverter (2000W+) |
Power consumption: typical values at 12V
You need to know how much power your devices draw before you can size your battery, solar panels and cables. These are typical values — always check your specific device's datasheet for the exact figure.
Lighting
Kitchen
Climate
Electronics
Other
Battery capacity: how many Ah do you need?
Your battery must store enough energy to bridge cloudy days and nights. Undersizing leads to deep discharges that shorten battery life. Lithium (LiFePO4) gives 80–90% usable capacity, AGM/gel only 50%.
Weekend, basic
20–30 Ah/day
Weekend, comfort
50–70 Ah/day
Full-time, minimal
60–80 Ah/day
Full-time, comfort
100–150 Ah/day
Full-time, heavy
200+ Ah/day
Solar yield per region and season
Solar yield varies enormously by region and season. Sizing your panels on summer figures means you'll run short in autumn. Use the worst season you'll travel in to calculate the Wp you need.
Daily yield in Ah at 12V per 100Wp panel
| Region | Summer | Spring/autumn | Winter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Southern Europe | 35–45 Ah | 20–30 Ah | 10–20 Ah |
| Central Europe | 25–35 Ah | 12–20 Ah | 4–10 Ah |
| Northern Europe | 25–35 Ah | 8–15 Ah | 1–5 Ah |
| Southwest US | 40–50 Ah | 25–35 Ah | 20–30 Ah |
| Pacific Northwest | 25–35 Ah | 12–20 Ah | 5–10 Ah |
| Northeast US/Canada | 25–35 Ah | 15–25 Ah | 8–15 Ah |
Voltage drop: maximum cable length
Voltage drop means your device receives less than 12V, causing malfunctions or shutdowns. Long cables and high currents make it worse. This table shows the maximum one-way cable length for 3% drop — for inverter cables aim for under 1%.
| Rating | 1.5 mm² | 2.5 mm² | 4 mm² | 6 mm² | 10 mm² | 16 mm² | 25 mm² |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5A | 3.0m | 5.0m | 8.1m | 12.1m | 20.2m | 32.3m | 50.4m |
| 10A | 1.5m | 2.5m | 4.0m | 6.0m | 10.1m | 16.1m | 25.2m |
| 15A | 1.0m | 1.7m | 2.7m | 4.0m | 6.7m | 10.8m | 16.8m |
| 20A | 0.8m | 1.3m | 2.0m | 3.0m | 5.0m | 8.1m | 12.6m |
| 30A | — | 0.8m | 1.3m | 2.0m | 3.4m | 5.4m | 8.4m |
| 50A | — | — | 0.8m | 1.2m | 2.0m | 3.2m | 5.0m |
| 80A | — | — | — | 0.8m | 1.3m | 2.0m | 3.2m |
| 100A | — | — | — | — | 1.0m | 1.6m | 2.5m |
Cable color coding: standard colors
Using consistent colors prevents dangerous mix-ups. These are the most common conventions for 12V DC camper van wiring.
| Color | Use |
|---|---|
| Red | Positive (+) — battery, fuse box, all 12V positive leads |
| Black | Negative (−) / ground — battery negative, chassis ground |
| Green/yellow | Earth/chassis bond — safety ground to vehicle body |
| Blue | Solar panel cables — from panel to charge controller |
| Yellow | Ignition/accessory switched — circuits that only run with ignition on |
Battery types compared
Not every battery is suitable for camper van use. Cycle life, depth of discharge and weight differ enormously between types.
| Type | Cycle life | Usable (DoD) | Weight/100Ah | Self-discharge/mo | Temp range |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LiFePO4 (lithium) | 2000–5000 | 80–90% | ~13 kg | 2–3% | -20 / +60 °C |
| AGM | 400–800 | 50% | ~30 kg | 3–5% | -20 / +50 °C |
| Gel | 500–1000 | 50% | ~32 kg | 2–3% | -20 / +50 °C |
| Flooded lead-acid | 200–400 | 50% | ~30 kg | 5–15% | -20 / +50 °C |
Charge voltages per battery type (12V)
Setting the wrong charge voltage shortens battery life or can be dangerous. These are the correct values for your charge controller or charger at 12V nominal.
| Type | Bulk | Absorption | Float | Low cutoff |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LiFePO4 (lithium) | 14.2–14.6V | 14.4–14.6V | 13.4–13.6V | 10.0V |
| AGM | 14.4–14.8V | 14.6–14.8V | 13.2–13.4V | 10.5V |
| Gel | 14.0–14.4V | 14.1–14.4V | 13.2–13.5V | 10.5V |
| Flooded lead-acid | 14.4–14.8V | 14.6–14.8V | 13.2–13.4V | 10.5V |
Common connectors and terminal sizes
Choosing the right connector for your cable size ensures a safe, low-resistance connection. An undersized connector causes heat and can melt.
| Connector | Max current | Cable range |
|---|---|---|
| Anderson PP50 (SB50) | 50A | 6–10 mm² |
| Anderson SB175 | 175A | 25–50 mm² |
| Anderson SB350 | 350A | 50–70 mm² |
| MC4 (solar) | 30A | 2.5–6 mm² |
| Ring terminal M6 | — | 1.5–6 mm² |
| Ring terminal M8 | — | 6–25 mm² |
| Ring terminal M10 | — | 25–70 mm² |
Calculate your own values
Use our free calculators to get exact values for your specific camper van setup.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I use household wire (Romex/NM-B/VD) in a camper van?
- No. Household wire is solid core and will break from vibrations while driving. Always use stranded (fine-strand) automotive wire such as FLRY-B or GXL. These are designed for vehicles and have the right insulation for an environment with vibration, temperature changes and moisture.
- Do I need to fuse every single cable in my camper van?
- Every cable connected to the positive terminal of the battery (directly or indirectly) needs a fuse. The fuse protects the cable from overheating in case of a short circuit. Place fuses as close to the battery as possible, ideally within 30 cm. Cables between a fuse and a device are already protected by that fuse.
- What is the difference between a blade fuse, ANL fuse and class T fuse?
- Blade fuses (ATO/ATC) are used for low-current circuits up to about 30A and fit in standard automotive fuse boxes. ANL and MIDI fuses handle 40-300A and are used for heavier circuits like DC-DC chargers and small inverters. Class T fuses are for very high-current circuits (up to 400A+) with high interrupt capacity, used for main battery protection and large inverters.
- How do I convert between mm² and AWG?
- There is no exact 1:1 conversion because mm² measures cross-sectional area while AWG is a gauge number (lower = thicker). The most common equivalents: 0.75mm² = 18 AWG, 1.5mm² = 16 AWG, 2.5mm² = 14 AWG, 4mm² = 12 AWG, 6mm² = 10 AWG, 10mm² = 8 AWG, 16mm² = 6 AWG, 25mm² = 4 AWG, 35mm² = 2 AWG, 50mm² = 1/0 AWG, 70mm² = 2/0 AWG.
- Is this cheatsheet also valid for 24V systems?
- The wire gauges, fuse principles and power consumption values are the same. The main difference: at 24V, the current is halved for the same wattage, so you can use thinner cables or cover longer distances. Battery capacity in Ah is also halved for the same energy (Wh). Solar yield in Ah is halved but Wh stays the same.